Face shape and frames: the only three rules that hold up

Face-shape charts assign you to one of six categories and then tell you which of six frames to buy. The mapping is mostly invented. What does hold up is simpler.

One: contrast the dominant line

If your face is built from curves — round or oval — an angular frame gives it structure. If your jaw and hairline are strong and square, a round or oval frame softens them. This is the only part of the traditional advice with any consistency behind it.

Two: the frame should be as wide as your face, and no wider

Total frame width should roughly match the widest part of your face, with the hinges sitting just outside your temples. This is a measurement, not a judgement — take a pair you already like, read the three numbers printed inside the temple (lens width, bridge width, temple length) and shop against them. It predicts fit far better than shape does.

Three: the brow line should not fight your eyebrows

The top of the frame should either follow your brow or sit clearly below it. Cutting straight across your eyebrows is what makes a frame look borrowed. If you have a low brow, look for a shallower lens height; if your brows are high, a deeper brow bar fills the gap.

Bridge type matters if you have a low or wide nose bridge. A keyhole bridge rests on the sides of the nose and generally sits better than a saddle bridge, which rests across the top.